Grapes of gratitude

Keeping Americans in the know about which wine goes best with veal or other expensive preparations is Kolkata-born Rajat Parr. The master sommelier and wine director of world-famous Mina Group bends elbows with Mathures Paul

There was a time when good wine flowed primarily in the confines of elite Kolkata clubs. Yes, that’s true. Though we hear of wine appreciation sessions being held in the city from time to time, moving back a decade or two, this was but a figment of the imagination, a passage from a book, pictures displayed on a few television channels... Wine connoisseurs were few and far between and those in the know belonged to, till now, long forgotten clubs.
Rajat Parr never expected to be a master sommelier, let alone rub shoulders with Larry Stone at Rubicon. He was too busy building a career. But he struck with a dream at the back of his head. Today, the Kolkata-born Parr is wine director of Mina Group and its signature restaurant, Michael Mina. Michael Bauer, restaurant critic for the San Francisco Chronicle once wrote about Parr’s wine list in his September 2004 review of Michael Mina: “I can’t think of a list that’s more distinctive or exciting. The 1,500 selections crafted by wine director Rajat Parr are perfectly tailored to the complex combinations served at the restaurant.” It was in 2003 that Parr was named wine director of Mina Group where he is responsible for developing and managing the wine programmes at each restaurant ~ Michael Mina Bellagio (formerly Aqua Bellagio, Las Vegas), Arcadia (San Jose Mariott), Nobhill (MGM Grand, Las Vegas), Seablue (MGM Grand, Las Vegas) and Michael Mina (Westin Saint Francis, San Francisco). Before joining Michael Mina Group he was wine director of Aqua Development Corporation, where he oversaw wine lists for seven restaurants.
Parr is an authority when it comes to wine. The restaurant, which opened in 2004, and his wine list were given the Wine Spectator’s Grand Award in 2005. In fact, it was named one of America’s best by Bon Appétit and Gourmet.
“When I tasted my first glass of quality wine with my uncle in the UK, I had an epiphany. The mystery of the grape was all I thought about. I was fascinated how a mere fruit could produce something so complex. So, I started tasting, reading and studying on my own. It helped to have a great mentor (Larry Stone) who was wine director at Rubicon Restaurant at that time. He taught me and now I am honoured to teach others,” says Parr in an exclusive interview to Unplugged.
Born in Kolkata, Parr is invited to host seminars and panel discussions at several prestigious food and wine gatherings. He enjoys creating and hosting wine dinners. When in Kolkata he was not exposed to the world of wines. He left the city to learn cooking at the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park, New York. Parr’s first love is food, wine is his passion.
It was at the Culinary Institute of America, jokingly called CIA, that he took to drinking wine more often. “While at CIA, I attended all the wine classes, read a lot and tried to taste as much as I could. I would buy dozens of wines and simply taste them. Then I would hand over the wines to other students to drink. It was fun.” After earning a bachelors degree from the Welcomgroup Graduate School of Hotel Administration, Parr entered the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park, New York. While at the Raffles Hotel in Singapore, he had the opportunity to work closely with renowned guest chefs like Alain Ducasse and Jean-Louis Palladin.
He has been associated with some of the best names in the hospitality business, and one of them is our very own Taj Bengal. “I did a short stint at the Taj Bengal after I graduated from Wgsha in Manipal.”
Being a sommelier is not easy. “It is always a challenge to understand what the guest wants. It’s not always the same because there are so many variables ~ mood, company, budget and atmosphere. To be a great sommelier, you always have to be ON. Everyone wants to test you and get the better of you. This is a big challenge… At Michael Mina we list 2,500 different wines. The focus is on French wine, though we are also serious about Californian wine.” At Michael Mina Parr has the freedom to choose from a long list of wines to complement a menu that is any gourmet’s delight. “In building the cellar, we have put an emphasis on mature wines which have the depth to fully complement the cuisine. Nothing is more pleasing than finding the perfect pairing.”
Speaking of wines he says, “Red Burgundy is my personal favourite. There is something about Pinot Noir grown on limestone soils. The best wines are really aromatic and its texture is ethereal.”
Parr does not frequent Kolkata every year. It is only every three-odd years that we get to see him around. “I am not sure if I can move back to Kolkata but I would love to consult on a project.”
With wine becoming a popular choice at many restaurants, Parr says, “I am convinced that the Indian palate will adapt wine. I see a great movement towards wine becoming popular. I just hope the taxes and laws become more relaxed.”