China in town

The cuisine has become ‘Indo-Chinese’, a Kali temple has sprung up in Tangra and the city’s Chinese have become Kolkatans to the core. Mathures Paul spends time on the other side of the walls of little China

High walls and reticence may greet you initially at Chinatown. But on a closer look, the transformation within Kolkata’s Chinese community – from workers at sugarcane plantations to tanners, and restaurateurs to teachers – has been phenomenal.
The origins of contact between the two cultures may be traced to China’s commissioning of tradesmen and scholars to India from time to time. But Bengal got its first Chinese settler in Yong Atchew who arrived here around 1780.
“The size of the community prior to World War II was estimated at 2,00,000 members. Most of these people resided around Burra Bazar and Tiretti Bazar. It was Mao’s Revolution that was largely responsible for the inflow. After the Sino-Indian war, the population dwindled to 20,000, leaving a bitter taste among many. “Many were looked down upon by the larger community. Moreover, there are people who are yet to get Indian citizenship even though they settled here before 1950. But the sourness over such things has mellowed over the years…” says Paul Lin, a third generation Chinese living in Tangra.
“The present generation is keen on teaching and banking jobs; they no longer want to be tanners. They don’t mind running a restaurant, for it is a great source of income. But many youngsters are leaving the city for the UK and the USA. I guess there are only 5,000 Chinese left,” rues Lin.
The state government’s decision to shift the tanneries out of Tangra has left most peeved. The scenario at the new complex at Bantala is disheartening. Very few factories are in operation; most are under construction. The appeal of “traditional” professions such as tanning, carpentry, dentistry has undergone visible change. “It would be wrong to say dentistry is still a time-honoured profession; there are very few Chinese dentists in the city today,” says Lin.
Buddhism, Christianity and Confucianism coexist in Chinatown. Inter-caste marriage is rare among the Chinese. “We are a bit conservative; women normally don’t marry into other communities. It’s not that we dislike other religions but we tend to stick together,” says Scott Chiu, a tanner by profession. Chiu adds: “Previously women would work only in the kitchen but now they are educated and are also working in schools. They don’t take up modelling because in India there is a stigma attached to the profession. But compared to other minor communities, the Chinese are forward looking and don’t mind mingling with others or partying as long limits are maintained.” This perhaps explains the demand for DJs during festive occasions when traditional songs are no longer much favoured.
The original Chinatown – around Bentinck Street and Phears Lane – has given way apartment blocks and commercial buildings, whereas in Tangra one has to wait a while before spotting a Chinese. Despite everything, Kolkata’s little China is charming – with traditional temples, dragon-architecture and festoons hanging all around.
But change has only made the mosaic more interesting. For example, the Chinese Kali Temple that has sprung up in Tangra. “We follow our religion but respect those of other communities. We also believe in sun signs and Feng Shui rules. New Year is the most auspicious event during which we visit Achipur. This is the place where Yong Atchew was given land to grow sugarcane and where his tomb lies,” says Steven Li of Lee Garden restaurant.
The Chinese have become part and parcel of Bengal. This is best exemplified in their cuisine. “Over the years we have acquired the flavour of Bengal. When Bengalis visit our restaurant, they ask for spicy and oily food. Though we cannot go over the edge with oil, we do make the food a bit spicy. The cuisine has become very Indo-Chinese,” says Lucy Li of Fung Fa restaurant.
Interestingly, most business establishments are owned by Chinese but often the employees hail from other communities. The divide hardly exists, such has been the mingling. And though the walls still exist around Chinatown, these people are always thrilled to make one feel at home with their warmth and hakka cuisine. No wonder they say when away from China, the best Chinese food is to be found in Kolkata.
(The article was published in The Statesman as part of Diversity Matters series)