Comfort food

Mathures Paul meets Antonio Carluccio, the Godfather of Italian Gastronomy

The large-screen television hanging from the restaurant wall was airing news about Left Front’s withdrawal of support while speakers connected to a stereo system played a series of background scores from Hollywood classics. Antonio Carluccio was unmoved, a Marlboro dangling from his lips, sitting at the head of a table that could sit a large Italian family.
Carluccio spoke haltingly, without batting an eyelid, providing his audience tales that would be cherished. “There was a little boy who decided to write a letter containing his Christmas list to Little Jesus, rather than Santa. He wrote he would be a good boy for a month if he gave him certain gifts. On reading the letter again, he reduced the month to a week. Next he looked at a statue of Madonna and rewrote the letter... ‘Give me what I want or you would not see your mother’!” This is one of the many jokes Carluccio shared over dinner at Park Hotel. But who is Antonio Carluccio?
In a few words, he is an authority in Italian cuisine and mushrooms. For 50 years he has been sharing the meaning of good life.
It seems like yesterday when he speaks of his early lessons as cook. In 1958, at the age of 21, he began to cook simple pasta suppers for himself and flatmate on a two-ring stove in Vienna. Thirteen books, several television shows later, Carluccio, at the age of 72, remains a close friend of members of the British aristocracy. In September 1999, he was awarded the Commendatore OMRI for services to Italian gastronomy and in 2007 he was awarded an honorary OBE.
The meal that awaited members of the Press couldn’t have been simpler, hence extremely difficult to prepare. The antipasti platter said it all ~ sliced salami and parma ham, shrimp fritters, borlotti bean and tuna salad, mushrooms sautéed with garlic and parsley, and morels with chicken liver and brandy (perhaps the highlight of the evening).
“I was requested to visit Andaman and Nicobar Islands to demonstrate for a group of rich people. I don’t like such things. I prefer to feed people on the street.”
Carluccio’s reach in the British aristocracy is quite strong, right up to Prince Charles and even the Queen. “Prince Charles is a good mushroom picker. He is a country man, engaged in the simple pleasures of life. I quite understand why he likes Camilla.” The statement marked the serving of Chilean sea bass baked in a bag with fragrant lime ~ few dishes can be simpler than this one.
“I am one with nature, a romantic who loves people, I spend time chatting away.” Carluccio had the patience to sit around for over two hours with a group of journalists who were at their wit’s end to ask questions. He is not an “F-word” person or “television guy” nor did he rattle names of “celebrities” he comes across. Instead, he prefers to speak of his childhood. After all, a man is known by his upbringing. His father’s posting as stationmaster made him travel quite a bit. The meals he enjoyed were prepared with fresh ingredients, were simple to prepare and the portions were not small. “I’m a country child. In cities, children feel squeezed. They think milk comes from cartons and not cows!” His mother was a great cook and his father, an equally good critic. The meal served at The Park fits into what he calls “Mof Mof Cuisine ~ minimum of fuss, maximum of flavour”.
The discussion touched upon various topics ~ city life, importance of fresh ingredients, his travel across India and religion. Carluccio was excommunicated from his church for his strong views. He does not believe in the excesses of any religion. In fact, much of what he said on the matter, is better left for another article (if ever).
Coming back to Italian cuisine, and the tiramisu and hazelnut and mascarpone cake that had been served, he said, “I don’t understand molecular cooking. Why be in search of something impossible? Food is to be enjoyed.”
Buon appetito!